Fuzzy Bear

fuzzy bear

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    All the content on this Fuzzy Bear site is protected by International Copyright laws. If photos or graphics were created by anyone other than Susie, it will be noted and the copyright will remain with the creator. Please respect these copyrights. Any similarity to any other tutorial is coincidental. You may download my tutorials for personal use. You may share them within a group, if you write and ask my permission first. The image you create from this tutorial is yours to do with as you please.

    This tutorial was written in PSP version 9, as well as the tube supplied here. It should work in the other versions, too. This little teddy bear is the main part of the tutorial, but part two shows you how to make a green vest for him to wear for St. Patrick's Day. It can be drawn in any color for any other time of the year though. Each shape is made with the preset shapes, and there is a bit of node manipulation, but I have given lots of directions and many screen shots.

    To get the fur effect on the bear, I used Fantastic Machine's Paint Engine filter. If you don't have this in your filters/plugins, you can down load it HERE. This is a freeware filter, so it is a free download. Remember you will have to have your PSP closed, or close it and then reopen it once you have the filter installed or it won't show up.

    Open a transparent 400 x 400 image. Add a new raster layer. Add a vector layer, name it body. Save as a pspimage. Use the preset shape ellipse, with the settings in the screen shot. Foreground C0C0C0, which is a light grey; background white. We are only using the foreground color so you can see the shapes when they are on top of each other.


    Draw an ellipse about 120 x 180. Go to Objects/Align/Center in canvas. This will move your ellipse to the center. Open your pen tool for a few minor node changes. Click on the top node - handles will appear. Pull each of these handles out to square off the "shoulders". Once you have your shoulders, you can convert this to a raster layer.


    Add a new vector layer, name it head. Use the same settings for this ellipse as well. Draw a circle about 92 x 92. Move it so that part of it is covering the body. Then you can convert to a raster layer.



    Activate the head layer, add a new vector layer, name it ear. Use the same ellipse shape with the same settings and draw a circle about 50 x 50. Move it so just a portion of it shows from behind the head. Convert to raster layer.


    Activate the layer below the body layer. Add a new vector layer, name it legs. Use the same settings for the ellipse shape, but change the foreground to white and make the background null (color turned off). Change your line width to 50. Draw your ellipse to about 200 x 150. Move to about the same place as in the screen shot. The top of the selection box should be about even with the number 200 on your left grid. Convert to raster layer.



    Now we have to get rid of part of our circle. Use your point to point selection tool, mode: add; feather null; smoothing: null, anti-alias: checked. Start at about 300 on your left grid and draw it across to a short distance from the leg on the right. Click delete and the white area within the marching ants should disappear. Deselect.

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    Activate your deform tool, hold down the control button and push the two bottom corner nodes in towards the middle.

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    The legs layer should still be activated, add a new vector layer, name it foot. Use the ellipse tool with the same settings as for the first ellipse. Width 0.5, foreground C0C0C0; background white. Draw a small oval about 50 x 60. Move into place and convert to raster layer.


    Activate the body layer, add a new vector layer, name it arm. Use the ellipse again, with the same settings as for the foot. Draw an oval about 40 x 90. For the arm we have to do a bit more node manipulation (sorry!). I will try to give very explicit directions and lots of screen shots.


    Activate your pen tool, and click on the top node. Pull the handles out a bit to each side to make a more rounded top of the arm.


    Hold your cursor over the line of the oval on the lower right side, about midway between the bottom node and the right side node. You will see a small, wavy line appear. Hold down the Ctrl key and left click your mouse. A node should appear on the line.


    Activate the bottom node. Tap on the up arrow key about 10-14 times to bring the bottom up. This forms our elbow.


    Activate the node you just put on. Right click on it. With the little screen that pops up, click on the Node Type. Click on Cusp.

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    Pull the node out to elongate into a forearm. Pull up and then pull down on the handles that are showing until you have a rounded end that will be the paw. It doesn't have to be perfectly round, as we will cover that when we add the fur.

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    Use your object selector tool and move onto the body. Convert to raster layer.



    One more shape to add to our teddy bear. Activate the head layer, add a small circle, name it muzzle. Use the ellipse with the same settings. Make your circle about 45 x 45. Move into place and convert to raster layer.


    Now we will add fur to each of our layers. To add the fur, I used the Fantastic Machines/Paint Engine with the following settings. Push Intensity: 0.64; Lighten: -.2; Bias: .00; Pull Intensity: 0.80; Lighten: -1.0; Bias: .00 Effect: Amount: 1.63; Type: Intensity 1; Input checked; Length: 30; Radiate: 1.01; Motion Angle: 94; Curl: 56; Operation Angle: 161; Curl: -174; Direction Channel: R checked. Once you have these settings in, you can save them as a preset. I saved them as "Fur Effect".



    Apply this to each of your layers. I started at the top of the layer palette, with the muzzle layer.


    Now that we have all the layers in fur, activate your smudge brush.

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    I started with my legs layer as it was still highlighted from adding the fur effect. Use short strokes and smudge out - this will get rid of or at least soften the dark line, plus give a fuzzy look of sorts to the bear. I added a white background to one of my first two raster layers so that the fur shows up better, not only in the screen shots, but for me to see as well. If you are having problems seeing your effects, flood fill the bottom raster layer with white.



    Once you have all the layers smudged, you should have something that looks like this. Smudging takes a little while, but it is so worth it!!


    Now we will do the fine tuning to be able to add our other ear, arm and foot. Activate the foot layer, add a new vector layer. Use the ellipse tool with the same settings, except change the line width to zero, and foreground to null. Background a light pink. I used #f3b7b7. Draw a small circle about 12 x 16. Convert to raster layer. Use the deform tool to angle the top of it outwards just a bit to the left.

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    Go to Effect/3D effects/inner bevel. Use the settings in the screen shot.



    Duplicate this little pad two times and reduce the size of each by 75% (make sure the resize all layers is unchecked) and move them into place. Then right click on the top copy in the layer palette, and Merge/merge down. Do this to the layer you just merged onto the foot layer.

    Duplicate this merged foot layer and mirror it. Move it into place over the end of the right leg.

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    Activate your arm layer, duplicate it and mirror it. Move it into place. At this point, I again used my smudge brush, with the same settings and used it on each arm and blended it a bit more onto the body.

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    Activate the ear layer. Add a new raster layer. Open your airbrush, with these settings: Shape: round; size: 20; Hardness: 90; Step: 25; Density: 35; Thickness: 100; Rotation: 0; Opacity: 35, Blend: Normal. Use a pink - I used #e4a2a2. Lightly spray over the center part of the ear - do not go to the edges - this is just some shading for the inner ear.


    Adjust/Blur/Gaussian Blur: 8, or what you think looks like what you want. Merge the raster layer down to the ear.

    Duplicate the ear, mirror it, and move into place on the right side of the head.



    Activate the head layer, add a new vector layer, name it eye. Activate your preset ellipse shape again and use the same settings with foreground null, background black. Draw a small circle about 15 x 15. Convert to raster layer. Effects/3D effects/inner bevel - use your round preset. The screen shot has the settings if you don't have it as a preset. Once you put the settings in, you can save it as a preset.

    Duplicate the eye and mirror it - move them into place.

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    Activate the muzzle layer, add a new vector layer, name it nose. Use the same settings with the ellipse tool to draw the nose that you did for the eye. Draw the size to about 30 x 12. We need to do a little node adjustment on the nose. Zoom to about 150% to see the nodes and handles easier. If you need to zoom it more, feel free to do so - anything that will make it easier to see what you are doing. Activate the pen tool to adjust the nodes.

    Activate the bottom node, tap on the down arrow about 4 times. Next grab the handle and push each end up and in towards the middle of the nose.

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    Convert to a raster layer. Effects/3D effects/inner bevel, use the same round preset one.



    Activate the nose layer, add a new raster layer, name it mouth. We need a half circle for this and there are several ways to do this - free hand pen tool, line width 3, anti-alias checked. Or you can draw a small circle with the ellipse and then select and delete the top part of the circle. Or you can do the Bezier Curve line - same settings as for the free hand pen tool except change the foreground to black, and the background null. Place a dot where you see the little square box in the first screen shot below. Then put your second dot where you see the end of the mouth on the right side, keeping your finger on the mouse button, holding it down, and you will see little arrows. Keeping the mouse button down, move your mouse up and over until you get the curve you want. Then change your pen tool to the straight line, and the line width to 1 (one), and draw a line from the tip of the nose to the mouth.

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    Hey, guess what? We are finished! At this point, I do a final save and then hold down my shift key and click on D to duplicate the entire image. That way if I want to use any of the original image parts, I have them available.

    I close the original image, with NONE of it merged, and if I am going to tube or continue on to "dress" the bear, I work with the duplicated image. If you want to work on this image, but still tube the main bear, you can always copy merged and paste as a new image. Then it is ready to be tubed and once you have it exported as a tube, you can close this merged image.

    For this little bear, I saved it as a tube, then I saved it as a tube without the arms, and saved one of the arms as its own tube. That way if I want his arms to move or to hold something or even to wear something like a vest or sweater, I can then put the arms on top, so it looks realistic.

    If you would like to "dress" your bear in a green vest for St. Patrick's Day, please continue on. Make sure you are continuing with an image that is still in all of its layers. If you don't want the vest, you can stop here.

    At the end of this tutorial is a link to another portion for this little bear. That tutorial will show you how to make two other styles of legs and arms. To do that part of the tutorial, it would be best to use a duplicate of your original pspimage with all of its layers.

fuzzy bear


st pat bear 2

    Now we are going to dress our bear for St. Patrick's Day. For those of you who don't want to make the vest using vectors, I am suppling it as a tube, as well as a couple of different hats you could also use to put on your bear.

    You can get my tubes HERE. I have included a couple of hats and the vest we are now going to make in vectors. They were created in version 9.

    Open your preset shapes, and activate the rectangle. Keep your settings the same as before, but the foreground will be null, background color green. You can pick your own shade or use the one I used: #00c000.

    Activate the body layer, add a new vector layer, name it vest. We will be making one side, and I am a leftie, so almost all my paired items start on the left. You can place yours on either side. To make it easier to see what you are drawing, turn the visibility to your arms off, by clicking on the little eye in the layer palette. Draw a rectangle about 66 x 112.



    Click on your pen tool to adjust the nodes. Activate the top left node. Use your arrow keys, and tap on the up arrow about 12 times. Tap on the right arrow key about 15 times. Tapping on the arrow keys just "nudges" the node, and makes it easier to get the node where you want it. If you feel more comfortable just pulling the node up and in to get the same or similar shape, that is fine as well.

v2       v3

    Activate the bottom left node, and tap it 24-26 times to the left - we don't need to cover the entire body for the arms will be covering it part way. Then tap the up arrow about 34 times. These numbers seem high, but I find using the arrow keys gives me more control where that node is going.


    On the bottom line, hold your cursor over it about 1/3 from the right bottom corner. Hold your Ctrl key down and click with your mouse. A new node will appear. This should be a Cusp node, but I always check it. Right click on it, when the window appears, click on node edit. Cusp should be gray, meaning it is the type of node it already is.



    Activate this node, and tap the up arrow key about 10 times. This gives us a curve of sorts, but it also makes the top of the "curve" pointed. Right click on the node again, and go to node edit, and change it to symmetric. This curves out the point and looks smoother. The difference is subtle, but it is there.

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    Activate the top right node, and tap it down with the arrow key about 10 times.


    Convert to a raster layer. Selections/Select All; Selections/Float. Open Effects/3D effects/ Cutout. Leave the layer selected and repeat the cutout changing the V & H to minus 2.



    Apply a drop shadow - V & H 1; Opacity 100; Blur 5. Duplicate the layer and mirror it. You might have to move it some to get it in the right place.. They will overlap slightly, and since this is a male bear for this image, the one we see as being on our right should be on the top. If you want it to be female, move your copy vest layer below the vest layer. You might also want to add a bow or something to show she is female.


    Activate the copy vest layer, add a vector layer, name it button. If you want this as a female, you would then activate your vest layer to add the buttons. Open your ellipse shape with the same settings, but foreground is null, and background is a gold gradient, or just a gold color #a8a608. Draw a small circle about 12 x 12. Convert to a raster layer.



    Apply an inner bevel with the following settings. I have this setting saved as a preset, as it is a soft, slightly raised bevel. I use it for many of my inner bevels.


    Duplicate your button layer twice, and move your buttons into place. Right click on your top copy button, and Merge/Merge down. Do this to all the vest layers until you end up with just the one layer named vest or if a female to one layer named copy of vest. If you highlight this layer, and go to Edit/Copy, Edit/Paste as a new image, you can export it as a tube.

    Turn the visibility of your two arm layers back on. Do any moves you think you need and you now have a bear wearing a green vest for St. Patrick's Day!

st pat bear       st pat bear 2

    If you would like to continue and make some variations on the arms and legs for this little fuzzy bear, please click on the link below for Fuzzy Bear II.

Fuzzy Bear II

    This tutorial was created February, 2007.

      Please feel free to contact me if you have any comments or questions. Send email to susie